Known as the “Island of Spice” due to its nutmeg and mace production, and having been to Zanzibar, Scott Bennett decided that he simply had to see the “other spice islands” of Grenada and for Karamanju. When he was invited by the owners of Aquanauts Grenada Peter and Gerlinde Seupel to see it for himslelf, he simply could not resist. Anchored at the southern end of the Grenadines in the southern Caribbean, Scott chose to NOT fly on Air Canadam and made his way down to find out what was what in the Caribean Spice Islands.
Although Air Canada offers non-stop flights from Toronto on Mondays, Air Canada have treated the Karamanju team appallingly in the past. In addition the flight was nearly full and stupidly expensive. Instead, I opted to fly Caribbean Airlines via Trinidad. They offer daily connecting flights to Grenada’s Maurice Bishop International Airport
I’m forever filing away travel tidbits and Trinidad has two places I have long wished to visit: The Asa Wright Nature Centre and Caroni Swamp. With 159 species recorded Asa Wright is renowned as one of the Caribbean’s birdwatching hotspots spots, while Caroni is famous for its colonies of scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird.
As I planned to arrive in Grenada on Monday morning and Trinidad flights depart in the evening, I had an entire weekend at my disposal. I arranged a night at Asa Wright and an afternoon tour at Caroni, with the 2nd night in Port of Spain. Weekend planned!
The flight from Toronto is 5 hours and I’m out of the terminal by 4:30. My driver Gerry is waiting. I apologize for the early pickup, but he assures me it’s normal. Off the main highway traffic is non-existent in the wee hours and we arrive at the lodge in 45 min flat. It’s pitch black and no one is up save for the security guard. As the office doesn’t open until 7:00, he instructs me to leave my luggage and make myself comfortable on the verandah, where coffee is waiting. Sounds like a plan!
Occupying an old plantation house, Asa Wright is set on 270 acres in the Arima Valley. The property is comprised of the Spring Hill Estate and the adjacent William Beebe Tropical Research Station, both of which had been cacao plantations with large tracts of rainforest.
Grabbing a cuppa, I park on a comfy sofa, listening to the nocturnal chorus. Beyond, I can just discern the distant lights of Port of Spain, as bats swarm feeders filled with sugar water. The sky brightens, and I can see the valley’s forest-clad hills. The entire scene is surreal. Hours earlier, I had boarded my flight on a chilly, Toronto evening and I am watching a tropical sunrise as a cacophony of birds provides the soundtrack.
A staff member appears to stock the feeders with fruit and the scene really gets crazy! A melee of birds pile on like an avian rugby scrum. Blue-grey, silver-beak, white-lined and palm tanagers; purple and green honeycreepers; bananaquits and yellow all arrive for a share. Biggest are the crested oropendolas, which go after the bananas. Resembling Guinea pigs on sits, agoutis scavenge beneath for displaced fruit, joined by striking golden tegu lizards.
And then there’s the hummingbirds. Thirteen hummingbird species can be seen right from the verandah, landing on feeders less than a metre from guests. I see eight, including white throated Jacobin, white-collared emerald, blue-chinned sapphire, black throated mango, copper-rumped and rufous-breasted hermit. The tufted coquette, Trinidad’s smallest bird, is sometimes mistaken for a large bee. Despite their diminutive size, hummingbirds are notoriously aggressive, dive-bombing and chasing each like miniature jet fighters.
After a guided morning walk, I spend the rest of the day on the verandah, where I observe a few dozen bird species. The photo opportunities are amazing and the coffee always ready. Despite its heft, I am grateful to have bought the 200-500mm lens the day before I left!
After dinner, I join a guided spotlighting walk through the forest with guide Elizabeth. The rain has stopped, but the air is steamy. Although there are sounds aplenty, we don’t see any wildlife. Heading back, Elizabeth’s torch illuminates a snake on the road and the group leaps back. It’s a fer-de-lance, one of Trinidad’s most venomous snakes. Its only a juvenile but enough for everyone to give it a wide berth. Back at the lodge, Elizabeth recounts the tale to other staff members. Amusingly, the snake gets bigger with each re-telling!
The next morning, I am awake at dawn, but the weather is looking unsettled. A tropical downpour passes, saturating the already lush landscape. I finally see some channel-bill toucans but are too far away for photos. After breakfast, I spend the rest of the morning photographing happily.
After lunch, I reluctantly bid Asa Wright adieu for the second leg of my Trinidad adventure. Setting out for Port of Spain, the rain intensifies, and I wonder if my Caroni tour will even depart.
Port of Spain is a big cosmopolitan city, unlike anything I have seen in the Caribbean. A friend had recommended the Kapok Hotel, right in the city. Despite Trinidad’s dubious reputation for crime, the hotel is in a nice area, with parks and some beautiful old colonial architecture. I check in and have just enough time to get organized before my transfer to Caroni.
Calling Caroni a swamp is something of a misnomer. A vast protected wetland, it is home to large tracts of mangroves and several large lakes. Enroute, the rain alternates between drizzle and downpour, so I hope the boat is covered. Arriving at the Nanan Tours jetty, other participants had assembled, so the tour was a go. Unfortunately, the boat doesn’t have a canopy. A guide asks if I would like to leave my camera bag in his truck, but I am reluctant. What if the rain stops and I miss getting some photos. Even worse, what if it doesn’t??? In the end, I cover the bag with the rain sleeve and pray it remains watertight.
Setting out down a channel through the mangroves, it becomes apparent why the boats aren’t covered. The mangroves close in and we find ourselves ducking low branches. Even in the rain, wildlife is abundant, and the guides are experts at finding it. An electrical tower hosts black vultures and a peregrine falcon as herons and egrets patrol the waterways and a boa lounges on a low branch. An unexpected find is a tiny silky anteater, curled up asleep in a furry ball.
An hour later, we enter a large lake and I’m not prepared for the spectacle that awaits. One island is ablaze with thousands of scarlet ibises! The birds spend the day on mainland Venezuela, less than 20km away, before returning each evening to roost in the mangroves. A continuous stream arrives, adding to the burgeoning colony. Even against a steel-grey sky, it is an extraordinary sight. The rain stops briefly, and I get some photos. I can’t believe my luck, although sunset colours would have been nice!
Heading back to the hotel, I am drenched but happy. Being a rainy Sunday night, dinner options are limited to a sole choice: The hotel’s Tiki Village restaurant, Chinese cuisine with an odd pseudo-Polynesian ambiance. My Cantonese chow mein is good, but I want a roti, dammit!
Up at 4:30, it’s back to the airport for my 8:00 departure. Despite being only a 30-min flight, Grenada seems light years away from Trinidad’s bustle. Landing at 8:30, mine was the only flight in the entire airport. Within minutes, I have my luggage and am out the door, where Peter is waiting. “Welcome to Grenada” he enthuses, and we head for Aquanauts’ base at the True Blue Bay Resort, a 7-min drive away.
My home for the week, the True Blue is a beautiful boutique hotel located on True Blue Bay (And painted blue to boot). Near reception, an activities board announces the week’s events, from chocolate and rum tasting to Mexican/Caribbean food night and even a street food festival. I was already liking this!
As my room isn’t quite ready, I get some breakfast. A focal point of the resort, the Dodgy Dock restaurant is the essence of eclectic cool; open-air and spacious with delightfully quirky décor. Fresh fruit juice and an omlette is just the ticket. The nutmeg banana bread is delicious; then again, I am on the island of spice.
Only metres from the reception, my room is a two-level affair, with living room/ kitchen on the main floor and bedroom/bathroom on the 2nd. Each floor has a terrace, with views across the bay to St. George’s University. An hour after landing, I have eaten and checked in. How cool is that??
After unpacking, I venture to the dive shop to get my gear sorted. Peter and his wife Gerlinde founded Aquanauts back in 1997. After operating a dive center in Curacao, they wanted to move on. After some island hopping a short stopover in Grenada caught their attention. “Grenada was not really on our minds, but what got us immediately was the friendliness of the people and the beauty of the island,” says Peter. “The diving was not much developed, so we saw a great opportunity there.”
From wrecks to reefs, some 31 sites are located off and along the island’s southern coast, with something for every skill level. Grenada is renowned as the Caribbean’s wreck dive capitol, with 15 off the island’s south coast and another 3 along the rougher Atlantic side.
Regrettably, I was unable to buy a wetsuit before the trip and all the shop had available was a shorty. Gear sorted, I met the Aquanauts crew. On hand are dive guides Bruce, Myron, Chrispin and Roland AKA Bugsy. Aquanauts predominantly uses Nitrox but those using re-breathers are well-catered to.
Housing assembled, I head to the dive centre for the 2:00 departure. Above the entrance, a sign offers frozen lionfish fillets for sale. The scourge of the Caribbean since their accidental release, Aquanauts is doing its part to alleviate the situation. Chrispin is coming along with his speargun to stock the freezer.
With Captain Larry at the helm and Myron as my dive buddy, we set out for Shark Reef, located off the island’s exposed Atlantic side. In contrast to the sheltered Caribbean Sea, where most of the dive sites are situated, conditions can be challenging, with rough seas and strong currents.
En route, conditions were unsettled, but the trip was less than 10 minutes. The site itself is over 3km long, averaging depths between 10-13m. Porous sea rods are interspersed with giant barrel sponges, pillar corals, common sea fans and rough tube sponges. I soon find a nurse shark resting on the bottom, but the current pushes me away. Fish species include rock beauty angelfish, reticulate moray, stoplight parrotfish, whitespotted filefish, blueheads and a pair of purplemouth morays.
I find a lionfish but Chrispin appears and voila: One more for the freezer. A giant barrel sponge reveals a pair of banded coral shrimp, while a mixed school of French and Caesar grunt along with 3 great barracuda and a huge hawksbill turtle keep me enthralled. I also have my first run-in with fire coral and immediately regretted not buying a long wetsuit. Regardless, it is a great dive to begin the week and can’t wait to see what else Grenada has in store.
The next morning, I am rested, fed and eager to go. First up is Windmill Shallows, a reef with a drop-off ranging from 18-32m. The seaward side features a slope descending to 42m before turning into a wall. Whip corals, gorgonians, vase, rope and barrel sponges thrive, while deepwater sea fans crowd the slope. Yet more barracuda appear; I don’t think I’ve seen so many in so few dives! Huge channel clinging crabs peer from crevices as longspine squirrelfish, butterflyfish and creole wrasse swarm in abundance. Great stuff!
Things only get better. Next up is the Veronica L, a small cargo vessel that sank outside St. George’s. A shallow dive no deeper than 12m, we head straight for the stern. The vessel is so encrusted with growth it bears the appearance of a ship sculpted from sponges, with virtually none of the original structure visible.
And then there was the marine life. The open hold houses congregations of French grunt, along with squirrelfish, Sergeant majors and the occasional Atlantic trumpetfish. On deck, coral-shrouded machinery includes a crane swarming with brown chromis, juvenile blueheads and yellowtail snappers. The port side reveals dense congregations of cup corals as fireworms skitter about. With next to no current, this is one of the best wrecks I have ever dived.
Back at the resort, Peter has a very important question: “Do you like beer?” Nearby is a microbrewery he wants to take me to.” Sold! Before leaving, I have just enough time for the resort’s Tuesday night chocolate and rum tasting. The organic chocolate is wonderful and comes in 60%, 82% and 100% cacao, with the latter especially intense. Unfortunately, I miss the rum portion, but I soon have beer!
And very good beer it is too. The West Indies Beer Company features an impressive array, from lagers to stouts. We stay for dinner and the joint is soon jumping, courtesy of a live band enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.
The next morning, we visit Grenada’s most renowned wreck. Calling the Bianca C the “Titanic of the Caribbean” is no exaggeration. At 180m in length, the 18000-ton cruise liner sank in St. George’s Harbour on October 22nd, 1961 due to an explosion in the boiler room. The ensuing fire prompted the evacuation of over 400 passengers and 200 crew. While being towed away from the shipping lanes, a sudden squall severed the line and she sank to the bottom 3km from Grand Anse beach.
Resting upright on her keel at 50m, the vessel has been gradually collapsing in on itself over the last few decades. According to Peter, breaks in the hull have widened and decks have collapsed over the years as the vessel continues settling. Around 1994, the ship’s rear third rear ship broke off and toppled onto its starboard side. One of the swimming pools was destroyed, but the forward pool remains intact.
Strong currents and the depth ensure this is a site for advanced divers. Bruce recommends a negative entry followed by a quick decent. Our first sight of the Bianca is decidedly eerie. Becoming visible around 25m, it emerges from the gloom like an immense ghost. We head for the stern, where a trio of great barracuda scatter at our approach. Clad in black coral, the uppermost section is at 35m, so I am thankful for the Nitrox.
Unfortunately, there’s no time to linger, as swimming from the stern to the bow utilizes a good chunk of bottom time. The scale is difficult to grasp. It is so big, it can’t be seen in its entirety and in places, resembles a massive underwater plateau capped with sponges and corals. This is a dive that warrants repeat visits.
Running parallel to the coastline, Purple Rain is not named after the late pop superstar, but for the profuse numbers of resident Creole wrasse. Sponges in a plethora of sizes mingled with abundant fan and brain corals, porous sea rods and those ever so pesky fire corals. After countless depressing accounts of coral bleaching worldwide, it’s refreshing to see Grenada’s reefs healthy and thriving.
Back at the resort, Peter had arranged local photographer Arthur Daniel to take me out for some topside shooting.
First stop is Grand Anse beach, Grenada’s most famous. Unlike other islands where the best beaches are reserved for well-heeled vacationers, Grand Anse is open to tourists and locals alike. Even in late afternoon, the beach is thronged. Arthur’s car, a sleek Toyota Altezza, quickly proves to be a local celebrity. Returning from the beach, we discover school kids posing for selfies in front of it!
We then head for St. George’s, the island’s capitol and one of the Caribbean’s most picturesque towns. Encircling a horseshoe-shaped harbour surrounded an old volcanic crater, it was founded by the French in 1650 and named Ville de Fort Royale. Ceded to the British in 1763, it was renamed Saint George’s Town after Britain’s patron Saint.
En route, we stop at a lookout off the tourist path. After a steep, uphill ramble, we are rewarded with splendid views across the harbour to town. Like a miniature San Francisco, a delightful jumble of architectural styles and pastel hues cascade down the hillsides. Below in the harbour, mega yachts mingle with small fishing boats. One yacht has the tallest mast I have ever seen, towering above an adjacent cruise liner. Another is “The Maltese Falcon” the world’s most expensive sailing yacht, whose astronomical price tag exceeds the GNP of many countries.
We then head around the bay towards the city centre. After miraculously finding a parking spot, we explore on foot. Some of the oldest buildings are churches, with the French built St. George’s Cathedral (1818) and the English St. George’s Anglican Church (1825). At one intersection, a policeman directs traffic from an elevated box. We ask if I can photograph him and he happily obliges.
However, what is appealing to the camera proves less so to the leg muscles. Ahead, the road plunges precipitously, with parked cars looking like they would topple end over end. “Please tell me we aren’t walking back up this hill” I ask Arthur with thinly veiled trepidation. Laughing, he assures me we won’t, instead taking a circular route to end up at Fort George and then back to the car.
Strategically positioned overlooking the harbour, Fort George has seen many events in the island’s history. It was here in 1983 that Prime Minister Maurice Bishop was executed, prompting the American-led invasion several days later. Bullet holes remain clearly visible in the walls. Watching a glorious sunset, a siren wails. “That’s the 6:00 siren,” explains Arthur. “Every day at both 6:00 AM and PM, the fire department sets off the siren. It’s been a tradition since I was a boy.”
We make it back in time for Street Food Wednesday, when local eating establishments set up to offer a selection of street foods from Grenada, the Caribbean and Mexico. With each vendor offering up to a dozen dishes, that is upwards of 60 different choices. I am in culinary heaven!
Purchased tickets are then exchanged for food, which vary in price depending on meat, seafood or veg. We decide to share, so I can sample as many items as possible. I am intrigued by the local dishes, many of which I am unfamiliar with. Oil down, Grenada’s national dish, is a one pot meal of salted meat, chicken, dumplings, breadfruit, callaloo (made from young dasheen leaves) and other vegetables stewed in coconut milk, herbs and spices. My brain over-saturated with choice, I present Arthur a handful of tickets and ask him to choose.
We soon feast on a spread of oil down, mutton curry, pilau rice, macaroni pie, steamed fish, grilled chicken and lionfish. Accompanied with a Dockside Ale from the West Indies Brewing company, we somehow manage to get through it all. Remarkably, I have room left for nutmeg ice cream. Barely…
The remainder of the week is spent doing 2-3 dives a day, visiting a variety of reefs and wrecks. Frequent squalls come and go, with torrential rain quickly followed by blue skies. Due to unsettled conditions, diving the Atlantic wrecks proves impossible, but there is no shortage of sites to explore. Black Forest is resplendent with deepwater sea fans and a variety of sponges including rope, pillar, vase, elephant ear and giant barrel sponges.
Located past St. George’s, the Grenada Marine Park features a pair of superb macro sites. Permits are required, which Peter hands out as we gear up. The reef’s innermost section is also home to Grenada’s Underwater Sculpture Park. Unfortunately, poor visibility means we give it a miss.
At Flamingo Bay, it doesn’t take long to find obliging subjects. A tiny blenny peers from a burrow. I initially believe it to be a secretary blenny, but my Fish ID book reveals it to be a sailfin blenny, a species I’ve never seen before. We find three more, along with Pederson cleaning shrimp, flamingo tongue molluscs and banded jawfish. I then notice a great barracuda, which appears more curious than normal. Bruce swats it away after coming too close for comfort.! Large colonies of brown garden eels thrive in the sandy areas and with a slow approach, I get some photos.
Descending from 6m – 28m, Molinere Point proves equally photogenic. Interspersed with gullies and sand channels, hard and soft corals thrive along with a medley of sea rods and sea plumes. With my tally of leg burns and contusions multiplying daily, I attempt to be more careful. Spotting a yellowhead jawfish, I analyze my surroundings before settling on a sandy patch. Suddenly, my knee feels a familiar burn. Wincing, I find the perpetrator; a sprig of fire coral. Naturally, I brush against the only specimen in sight!
Although I miss a shot of him out of his hole, I discover his mouth is chock full of eggs! Moments later, Bruce yields another surprise; a longlure frogfish and the first green one I’ve ever encountered. Bruce says it’s the first he’s seen in seen 6 months.
Although English is the island’s language, a myriad of cultures makes the island home, which is reflected in the diverse cuisine. Post-dive lunches range from fish tacos Trinidad-style roti, pilau rice and even chicken shawarma. Near the mega-yachts of the Port Louis Marina, Peter takes me to dinner at Yolo Sushi, where Filipino chef Jeffery serves up a sumptuous Carnival Roll featuring shrimp tempura roll topped with salmon, tuna, hamachi, unagi mango, spicy mayo & black & orange tobiko. Yum!
On another afternoon of topside photography, we visit Fort Fredrick, the best-preserved of St. George’s trio of forts. Occupying a commanding position atop Richmond Hill, it was constructed by the French in 1779. Commandeered by the British, it was ironically used in defense against the French, although a cannon was never fired in anger.
Back in St. George’s, we stop at the Chocolate Museum, the equivalent of the mothership calling me home. I instantly know my wallet will not emerge unscathed. Arthur had designed the museum’s interior and the displays are informative and attractively presented. And then comes the gift shop. A panoply of products beckon, from chocolate and raw cacao nibs to sauces, flavoured coffee and spice packets of nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. My instincts prove correct and I depart with bags of goodies. After all, how could one refuse Forbidden Chocolate flavoured coffee??
Afterwards, Arthur takes me to more scenic viewpoints. One spot entails tramping through a cemetery, which fascinates me as much as the view. Engravings on headstones and mausoleums reveal occupants born in Syria and Lebanon. We finish up at another outstanding location just in time for the 6:00 siren. The light is exquisite and well worth scaling a fence and wall to get to.
With another wreck, MV Shakem, on the agenda, Peter has arranged a model for me. Boasting a beautiful smile and luxuriant curly hair, Grenadian-born Tatiana Costantini is a former Aquanauts and experienced model, having worked with many other photographers. A great wreck AND a model? It’s my lucky day!!
A 55m freighter, the MV Shakem capsized in May 2001 after its cargo of cement shifted during a storm. Virtually intact and resting upright at 32m, the decks are situated at around 25m. A dense mantle of marine life has since enveloped the vessel, including spectacular swathes of white Telesto soft coral. Massive bags of cement remain strewn across the open cargo hold, while deck machinery and a crane play host to an abundance of French grunts and Sergeant Majors. Tatiana proves to be a superb model, instinctively posing in all the best locations. My only regret was not asking her to leave her luxuriant hair untied as it would have billowed amazingly underwater.
Back in the room, I have unexpected company. Reaching into my toiletry bag, a tiny lizard, jumps out to the rim. Naturally, I run for my camera. After snapping a few images, I attempt coaxing him on to my hand, so I can take him outside. Instead he jumps onto my head! Not wanting to hurt it, I head outside where I intercept a passing staff member. “Excuse me, can you remove this lizard form the top of my head?”
With diving (sadly) finished, Peter arranges for Bugsy to take me for a land excursion on my final day. I quickly discovered the island’s compact size of 306 sq. km, has absolutely no bearing on how long it takes to get anywhere. Grenada is one of the hilliest places I’ve ever seen.
After setting out, Bugsy indicates Calivigny, the world’s most expensive private island resort. The entire 10-suite island can be yours for a mere 120,000 USD a night. (Then again it does sleep 50 people) Passing the turnoff to St; George’s, we head up the island’s rugged spine. “Everyone has a view on Grenada” enthuses Bugsy and he isn’t kidding. It seems every house has a million-dollar view. I soon realize the island’s longest stretch of straight road is from the roundabout to the True Blue Resort!
After a brief stop at Annandale Falls, the road rapidly gained elevation, with lush rainforest enveloping the landscape. Ascending to 582m, we enter the Grand Etang National Park, a 1,000ha swathe of mountainous forest. The name translates as large lake in French, referring to the 12ha crater lake within the park boundaries.
Prior to the Grand Etang Lake turnoff, Bugsy mentions there was usually a fellow with a Mona monkey posing for photos. I normally avoid such touristy things, but I really did want a monkey photo. Found in West Africa, they were likely introduced during the years of the slave trade. Sadly, being a Sunday with no cruise ships in port, he wasn’t there. Instead, we head to the crater lake for a photo stop.
Heading back to the main road, a van blocks our way, with a group of tourists standing alongside it. Suddenly, I glimpse a tail. Mona monkeys! Even better, these are wild. Well, not entirely; one is perched atop a lady’s shoulder eating a banana. At the best of times, monkeys are not my favourite creatures, especially those used to people. Amazingly, these are different. Colourfully patterned with round furry faces, they are very gentle. Banana finished, it jumps from the lady to me, clambering down me like a ladder before scurrying up a nearby tree!
For the remainder of the tour, I experience two of the islands mainstays: rum and chocolate. Remarkably for an island of just over 110,000 people, there are five rum distilleries. We visit River Antoine, the island’s oldest, dating back to 1785. Although closed for tours (Sunday again), we can wander freely, observing the entire process from sugar cane harvesting to fermentation in huge bubbling vats. Sickly sweet, the powerful aroma is almost enough to turn me off rum entirely. (almost). At 70%, Rivers Rum is so potent, it’s not allowed out of the country. Perhaps it was a good thing rum-tasting was closed….
We then stop at the Diamond Chocolate factory, makers of Jouvet chocolate. I have a plantation tour, where I observe the ripe cacao pods growing. Deep red in colour, I am surprised how big they are. Although the factory is closed, the gift shop entices, complete with samples for tasting. The nutmeg and ginger are winners, and once again, depart with my wallet emptier.
The drive back reveals scenic coastal views and one quirky manmade one. Outside St. George’s, Charlies Bar has constructed an enormous wall of tires, all painted in Grenada’s national colours of red, green and yellow. Originally made to entice customers, it is now an attraction, with many tires inscribed with facts about Grenada. Back at the resort, I arrive in time for the annual Christmas market, with vendors selling a wide variety of crafts and products. A great finish to a great day. (But no more chocolate!)
My trip at an end, I was equally sad and happy. Sad to be leaving, but happy for the privilege of visiting such an extraordinary place. Even in a week, there simply wasn’t enough time to experience everything on offer. Along with the outstanding diving, the myriad of topside attractions makes the island an ideal destination for those travelling with non-divers. Having missed out on the Underwater Sculpture Park and the Atlantic wrecks, I knew a return visit was in order. I could see why many True Blue guests at repeat visitors are; I intend to be one myself!
Scott Bennett nearly always goes on safari (dive or African) with the African and Oriental Travel Company. On this occasion however he travelled as the guest of Aquanaughts Grenada, which he highly recommends. For your booking to Grenada, contact the African and Oriental Travel Company on : firstname.lastname@example.org